Learn to Lead Trad Climbs
This learn to lead course is for people with some experience of rock climbing who want to progress to leading routes on natural rock and placing gear, outside. For those that just want to learn about leading sport routes see our Learn to Lead Sport Course.
Beyond the Edge are one of the most experienced providers of Mountain Training courses in the UK. We think its important that the courses run in a fun and friendly manner and take great pride in the very high percentage of individuals who return for further courses.
An average course participant will have some climbing wall experience (leading routes inside). They will have climbed outdoors as a second at Very Difficult (V Diff) standard or higher and be a competent belayer. Ideally you would have completed our Rock Climbing Introduction or Intermediate Rock Climbing courses.
During the course, you will learn / revise how to set up belays safely and efficiently, use runners, and lead climbs, whilst understanding the potential dangers involved. You will be encouraged to go at your own pace and climb routes within your ability whilst improving your skills in a supportive environment.
Wed 21 – Thu 22 Aug Course full
Sat 21 – Sun 22 Sept
Sat 12 – Sun 13 Oct
Bespoke Dates and Locations
If there are no dates suitable, and there are two or more of you that want to sample lead climbing, please contact the office and we will arrange some dates and a location to suit your diary.
The course will meet at 09:00 in Grindleford in the Hope valley. Grindleford has good bus and train links to Sheffield and a good train link to Manchester.
The two days are flexible to suit your desires and the prevailing weather conditions, a rough outline is below:
We meet and after introductions over a cup of coffee we discuss rock climbing equipment, and how to use it safely. Depending on the weather, we cover knots and the basics of setting up anchors and belaying and leading climbs inside or outside. We then put all this theory into practice on the rock, learning to place gear, practicing anchors, perfecting our climbing movement and learn about falling safely.
We head straight out and get on with the climbing. If you feel ready and under our close supervision maybe making your first lead climbs. As your confidence and skills increase you can increase the difficulty at your own pace. We will also cover abseiling and preventing common problems.
The fee includes the use of ropes and all training materials. Whilst we encourage you to use your own gear if available, we are happy to loan any other equipment that you may need e.g. helmet, harness or boots, free of charge just let us know on your booking form. A suggested kit list together with some tips and links to gear reviews is in the Joining Instructions.
Whilst it is not required to read anything before the learn to lead course (apart from the Joining Instructions!) We give some suggestions below. More detailed suggestions together with a host of helpful links and videos are contained in our Learn to Lead Joining Instructions.
The BMC booklet New Rock Climbers is highly recommended. It can be downloaded here
The official handbook of Mountain Training (National Governing Body) for climbing schemes contains lots of useful information. It is:
Rock Climbing, essential skills & techniques. Libby Peter.
This Beyond the Edge course is non-residential to allow you to select between a thermarest or 5 star hotel as you require. There is lots of accommodation in the Hope Valley and we recommend The Sir William which offers BtE clients a discounted rate (code given on booking) and we often start courses from here. There are other local pubs, B&B’s and also YHA’s in the villages of Hathersage, Eyam and Castleton. Popular campsites include North Lees under Stanage Edge and Pindale Farm
You certainly don’t have to be super fit to enjoy the course, average fitness is all that is required.
If you have slightly more time you may be interested our learn to lead week to kick start your rock adventures.