How to Buy a Down Jacket
The longest night has now passed and we move slowly towards the Spring. In the remaining winter months we reach for our insulated jackets. We have two choices: down or synthetic. Both options have pro and cons. Synthetic is cheaper and much more forgiving in wet conditions ie synthetic will still provide some insulation when wet and will dry quickly. Our team uses Mountain Equipment Oreus jackets throughout the year and they are amazing – so good we call them magic jackets… However down is a lighter insulation with a greater warmth to weight ratio. And nothing beats the cosiness and instant warmth that a good quality down jacket provides.
So how do you choose the best down jacket for your particular needs? Are you just wanting a cosy jacket for a wintery visit to a Lake District pub? Are you standing around at Plantation boulders between attempts on Crescent Arete? Do you need the lightest possible clothing for the Marathon des Sables? Or wish to stay warm on your winter ascent of Jebel Toubkal?
Two key factors go into making down clothing. Both these factors have an impact on the weight and warmth of your down garment: down quality and fabrics.
Down Quality
The key number to be aware of is fill power. The fill power number indicates how much loft is achieved by the down. The higher the fill power number the more warmth for weight. Cheaper jackets may have 650FP or 700FP. 800FP is very good quality. 1000FP is the absolute best but extremely rare and expensive.
A word of warning about waterproof / hydrophobic down – it isn’t. Sure it rebells water and last a bit longer, but it won’t cope with getting properly wet and becomes close to useless when soaked. If you might get wet, buy a synthetic jacket like the ME Oreus.
Fabrics
Another consideration is the fabrics used in the construction ie the inner and the outer. A thinner and lighter outer fabric helps the down loft and will reduce the overall weight of the jacket. The lightest jackets use the lightest fabrics. But of course the lightest fabrics are less durable. Mountaineering and expedition jackets may use waterproof outer fabric and some will have taped seams but this does add to the weight. As always there are compromises and you will need to weigh up your priorities.
Brands
I’ve concentrated on UK based companies and the main four the main UK brands making high quality down jackets (and sleeping bags) are PHD, Rab, Alpkit and Mountain Equipment.
Ethics
Before you buy a down item have a look at the companies policies on sourcing their down and their animal welfare standards. Where does it come from?
PHD, Rab and Alpkit have signed up to the independent Responsible Down Standard, Mountain Equipment use the Down Codex.
General Purpose Down Jackets
Great everyday jackets, dog walking, pub, whipping on while stopping for a break on a walk. The down quality won’t be a good as the higher end jackets but they can be good value for money if you don’t need top end performance.
The Narrow baffle designs dominate this category as epitomised by the iconic Rab Microlight.
Rab Microlight Jacket
Another good examples of this are the Alpkit Filoment or the Mountain Equipment Earthrise.
Beware that some of the cheap high street versions of these narrow baffle jackets may be using unethically sourced down.
Down jackets for Bouldering and Rock Climbing
This is a particularly niche use. Climbers and boulders spend a lot of time static and then have a quick burst of heat producing energy while climbing their route of boulder problem .
You want to keep warm and toasty while waiting, espying out your route or resting between attempts. And then you whip off your your jacket for the ascent. A fat down jacket will provide a lovely instant hit of warmth when you pop your jacket back on and bathe in the glory of your climbing prowess.
Mountain Equipment Lightline or Rab Neutrino Pro would be a good versatile choice that could also be used on overseas trips and expeditions.
Another good value for money choice is the Alpkit Fanton the women’s version is here.
Ultra Light Down Jackets
These jackets will use the highest quality down filling and the lightest outer fabrics, used by ultra runners, lightweight backpackers and fast packers. This type of clothing can also be used to boost the warmth of your sleeping bag. Using the highest quality 1000FP goose down the masters of this type of jacket are PHD. Hand made in the UK PHD make the worlds lightest down jacket and the worlds lightest down vest/gilet.
PHD WaferLite. The lightest down jacket in the world.
Mountaineering Jackets
A broad category. Encompassing Alpine winters, ice climbing in the chilly depths of Norwegian winter and those rare British winters of deep cold, Below zero is where these specialised mountaineering down jackets excels. These will have a water resistant outer, two way zips and helmet compatible hoods. Example include the Rab Electron Pro, PHD Delta K and the Mountain Equipment Baltoro which is a beautiful beast of a jacket.
Expedition Jackets
If you’re heading off to higher altitudes then consider a dedicated expedition jacket, Warmth and design will be the key factors here. These jackets will need to protect you from some seriously harsh weather. Airline baggage allowances and ethical porter loads mean weight will also be a big consideration. For Kilimanjaro a great lightweight choice would be the Rab Mythic Ultra.
Rab Mythic Ultra
Other well respected and tried and tested designs include the Mountain Equipment Gasherbrum and Rab Positron Pro.
For the ultimate in weight for warmth look at the PHD Hispar K. This jacket will get you up to 7000m which is extraordinary considering it only weighs 575g.
For ridiculously cold conditions you’d be toasty in the PHD Omega. It’s rated down to -55!
Alex
Beyond the Edge Ltd is based in the Peak District, easily reached by train from London and within easy travelling distance from Sheffield, Manchester, Leeds, Nottingham and other Northern towns and cities.
We are one of the UKs most experienced providers of climbing, walking, scrambling, mountaineering and navigation training courses.
Most of our courses are run in the Peak District National Park which has some of the finest rock climbing, bouldering, walking and hiking in the world.
